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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2017 4:38 am
Posts: 7
My trans is leaking into my T case. I will *eventually* have to take the plunge and remove my T case to investigate. I'm *relatively* handy with a wrench, but I'm certainly not a professional. I've RnRed Jeep CJ5 drive lines in the past with success, but this is a different animal.

My problem is that this trans has been out before (before I owned the rig), I don't know if anything was done to the T case, and I have zero confidence that the current T case input shaft seal(s?) are correct. I'm desperate for info here, and this forum seems to be the only place in the world that might be able to help. I don't trust the average trans shop to know/give a shit, frankly, about the unique set-up these things have.

So, who's RnRed their Tcase? What is the proper seal configuration between the trans and T-case. Is there a rear trans seal, or does the T case have a two seal setup...or...something else?

I'm desperate, here. I've tried to find the info in searches on my own and I'm not having any luck. I've read different threads on GM 4WD truck sites that describe similar problems, the fix is to replace the seal, and there are (apparently) different seal set-ups AND even (supposedly) professional and reputable shops get it wrong often times...on drive trains that are WAY more common than what these Slant Noses run.

This would be a simple question to answer for anyone who's had the T case off, and I'm guessing that at this point in time many of you have, given the age of these machines.

Help! Thank you!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:36 am
Posts: 93
Location: IL
The rear of the trans is open. Fluid splashes around, so it can lube the spline shaft and the worm gear for the speedo. There is actually a pretty big cavity hole where you can see into the back of the trans. I just looked at my old TH475 sitting in the garage and took a photo of the tail shaft. So that means the seal is in the transfercase. Removing the T-case should be fairly easy, just pull the bolts from the trans and slide it off the shaft. You may end up buying a short ratcheting end wrench to get the last bolt off near the top, but it should not be that bad. I've not messed with the input on the T-case. Not sure what it takes to pull it apart. (I've pulled the gear and chain from the other side, but not the input shaft)

Just for grins, the 4L85e has a seal on the back of the trans. For those of us who have converted, I have had to add fluid to the spacer between the trans and the T-case.

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Dave

The Flying Fortress
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
Yes it is FORSALE

FMCA F298817


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2017 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2017 4:38 am
Posts: 7
Excellent! That's a good place to start. Based on that info, from what I've read on other forums, I would expect the T case to have back-to-back seals, one facing the trans, one facing the case. Right now I'm buried in sorting out electrical gremlins in the cabin and might not tackle the leaking trans for awhile.

The coach isn't moving much (if at all) until I can flush the radiator, change the diff oil and lube any zerks I can find under the front suspension. I changed the engine oil and filter when I picked it up...it'll need to be done again. I'll need two new tires.

I got the Onan to fire and run yesterday (it turns out the fuel pump was stuck). NOW its game-on for trying to make this thing useful. The roof A/C works, the AC power outlets work ( I spent a solid 3 hrs just vacuuming the coach yesterday on Gen power) and all the bullet/map lights work. The inverter/charger works. I can't seem to get the flourescent cabin lights or the roof vent fans to run, either on batteries or gen/shore power. There's 12 volts at every fuse in the rear...and all fuses are good.

I'm rambling and crossing threads here. The point is, this thing needs a ton of work and I need to prioritize. The info on the trans seal is excellent. I'll need to fix it before regularly using the rig, and now that the gennie is working I'll be pressing for that day over the summer. I'd given up on this thing for a number of months and just let it sit.

Thanks for taking the time, there are precious few people I can ask about this rig.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 12:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:36 am
Posts: 93
Location: IL
There are 19 grease points on a stock 80s Revcon. 21 if your lower balljoints have been replaced with the Hummer H1 joints.
Upper ball joints 2 or 4 if H1 conversion
Half shafts 4
TieRod ends 4
Drag Ling 2
Pitman to Bellcrank 2
Bellcranks 2
Driveshaft 3

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Dave

The Flying Fortress
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
Yes it is FORSALE

FMCA F298817


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2017 4:38 am
Posts: 7
Excellent! Thanks, Dave. I'll be loading up the grease gun either this weekend or next.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 6:16 am
Posts: 18
Location: Charlotte, NC
I had read about the Hummer lower ball joint swap, but missed the upper ball joint swap. You have the part #/year for upper?

I just learned about Mr. Moore's passing. Do you have any information about what might have happened with inventory?

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Mfg Date 0679
30' Revcon Mid-coach bath/Double Bed LR
VIN RFS279000143 Ser # 9310
454 Quadrajet Dexter Rear Axles Stock Drivetrain
16.5 950x16 x 6
Soon to be 225-75R16 on GMC 8 Lug Wheels


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2017 4:38 am
Posts: 7
Update: OK, There are so many things to attend to with an old RV that's been sitting unused for years. I've been distracted by house issues...the last couple of weekends were spent working with/ cleaning the propane system and appliances. I had trouble getting propane to flow at all. I purchased a new regulator, came back the next weekend and magically gas had started flowing. I suppose opening the main valve into empty lines caused a check valve to stop gas flow...IDK, but now I've got gas in the system. The stove and oven both work, including pilots. I spent quite a long time cleaning the refrigerator compartment, including vacuuming then blowing out the fire tube and flue the best I could. A steady flame started and maintained itself with very little drama...the freezer compartment began to get cold within 30 min, so I'm assuming the fridge works in general. The rig wasn't very level, so I shut it down. I felt no discernible cooling in the main refrigerator compartment. The hot water heater ignited and held a steady flame after a small handful of attempts. I haven't touched the furnace yet.

There's a broken hot water line in the rear. I'm getting an education in polybutylene plumbing that I never wanted, but I *think* I now have the proper supplies/tools to fix that. I burned half a day messing with it last weekend with a spectacular *fail* as the result...the other half of that day was spent unsticking the awning sliders. That, fortunately, resulted in a *win*. The fabric is a little tender, but still serviceable for a couple of seasons with a little strategic taping? I hope? I give the roll-up aluminum covers credit for that.

So...today I'm heading to Harbor Freight for a jack and some stands to *finally* get access to the underside of this rig (God knows there's no crawling under it without some lift) to lube that front end and change the diff fluid. With all the custom fabrication I'm reading about, I'm afraid to repeatedly crank the steering stop to stop in the parking lot without getting some fresh grease in there. I notice there's a CV joint in the steering linkage. The boot to said joint is AWOL on my unit. From what I can see, it is WAYY too dry, but still seems to be in serviceable condition. I want to clean it, regrease it, install a new boot and call it done, BUT...I'm sure you can't just stroll on down to Pep Boys and ask for a steering linkage CV boot for an '81 Revcon....I may have to fake one...

Anyway, thanks again for the answers and the info. I'm a little freaked out by the all the custom fab in the driveline/front end. With the diff issues alone, I don't want to be towing with this thing...especially since I would need to be towing on some curvy mountainous roads. Once I get it usable I may put it up for sale? The two twin bed sleeping arrangement is weird...we call it the "Ricky and Lucy beds." I've got a piece of plywood to bridge the hallway gap and put the mattresses together for people who like each other to sleep on. I like the rig in general...but getting a neglected 35+ year old motor home is like getting an old truck and an old trailer at the same time...and I've only got two hands, so many available hours and funds...and I know you all can relate. The time I've spent just on cleaning alone....wow..... =:o.

It'll get there...eventually....


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:36 am
Posts: 93
Location: IL
One thing to know about propane. There is a safety valve that automatically closes if the gas flows too quickly. This valve assumes there is a serious leak and closes for safety. If the lines are totally empty an you open the main valve too fast, the valve will close. At that point, you need to close the valve, wait a little bit and crack it open just a little bit. Once the lines fill, then you can open it all the way.

_________________
Dave

The Flying Fortress
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
Yes it is FORSALE

FMCA F298817


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