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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 2:06 am 

Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 5:41 am
Posts: 25
Hello all;

This is meant as a heater blower motor replacement update for all slantnose owners. As you may know last winter (on a trip of course) my motor started acting up and finally gave up midway on return
home. Not fun in winter.
If yours is a wide body 87 or newer you will have the same problem I had. In the 82 manual they reference a procedure that involves removing an access plate under cowl (you can see it and its mounting 10-12 screws). Unfortunately the newer units this plate is also there and the screws,but the plate continues up above the dash framework and is unremovable. I had to take an 4"angle grinder and cut thru this plate as close to the framework as you can get with grinder . After careful removal of plate this exposes both heater core and a/c evaporator, these must be removed,you may get lucky and not have to open your a/c lines,I wasn't that lucky.
Looking up into the top of the opening you've just you should be able to see the lower part of the blower assembly and 2 mounting studs with nuts. Unfortunately there are 4. You cannot, I repeat you cannot access the top two at all. What I had to do was from the inside at passengers footwell above recirc door at floorline was to cut with grinder again an access panel aprox. 8x6 roughly in the center of the plenum. Once removed you will see 2 teardrop shaped welding spots, the are the L shaped studs for mounting the blower assembly, these must be ground off. From the front now you will be able to remove the assy by first prying the lower part off of the studs and pulling it down. Disassembly was quite straightforward and I was able to get a replacement motor from local auto parts store. You really need to bring your old motor with you as this will assist them in finding something suitable. After replacing refurbed assy. and replacing a/c evaporator and heater core I just used duct tape to cover the gap left from grinding the front plate. From the inside you will have to provide amounting surface for the access plate you made. I just used 4 strips of 1 1/4" wide 18 gauge galvanized metal and pop rivetted it into place then used self tapping sheet metal screws to affix the plate to. I did not bother to replace the 2 upper studs as the whole assy. was a tight fit upon reinstallation.Sorry that I don't have a part # for the blower as this repair happened beginning of summer and I was so frustrated with it I just wanted to get it over with, and move on to replacing the motors in my furnaces. for that I have a solution.
Our Suburban furnaces are now obsolete and blowers for them are no longer available anywhere that I found. What I did find however was that the Mack truck MR model blower motor was an exact fit and works extremely well.
To repair the dash blower be prepared to bleed some and take at a day to accomplish.Several RUM breaks do help also.


1987 Revcon 31 DB #2715,Doug Thorley headers,new carpet (my screwup) new upholstery,454 miles,HWH hydraulic jacks, exterior lighting converted LED.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 1:26 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2013 3:37 pm
Posts: 126

I know that I'll have to do this repair one of these days and appreciate your detail of the effort you went through. Also on the interchange info for the Suburban furnace blowers. Being in Central Florida I've never had to use my furnaces, although it'd be nice to have them working. As long as I've had my coach (coming up on 11 years now), I've never actually been successful in lighting them off. I figured I'd never go anywhere where they'd need to be used, so why tear into them and spend the money on a zero-use return. Quite truthfully at this point I'm probably looking at two total rebuilds if I ever need to really use them.


System Manager and your tourguide for the day. 1989 Revcon 31' MB #2752. Coach renovated between 2006-2009. 454 with .030 overbore, Doug Thorley headers, Federal Model 58 Traffic Blaster, Voyager backing camera system, more mods shortly forthcoming.

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